Anatomy of a Chloe jacket

Some of you will know that it has been a very up and down couple of months here, but one of the “ups”…and it is a very big “up”…was a dear friend returning from rummages through designer recycle stores in the US with this amazing Chloe jacket just for me.

I gasped!  I’m afraid true designer pieces are not in my budget (well, maybe if I hadn’t spent so much money on fabric), especially iconic jackets like this one.

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This jacket is from a Phoebe Philo collection for Chloe.  She produced fantastic, really imaginative garments and truly embraced the demi-couture idea I think.  (I showed another Chloe jacket from this collection earlier in the blog too).  A close-up examination of this jacket will show you just why that description is so apt…and designer prices can sometimes be appreciated!

If you have ever thought of going the extra mile with you sewing incorporating unique, demi-couture features in your garments, this is such inspiration!

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The black fabric is a lightweight wool.  The cream contrasts are grosgrain ribbons in different widths, hand-stitched in place.  The front plackets are really interesting.  There is a concealed ribbon with snap closures hand-stitched in place on a plain black band outlined with hand stitches in cream contrasts.  And on top of all this is the grosgrain ribbon with hook and eye closures.  (This jacket is not going to come undone!).

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If you enjoy small but special details, just have a look at the beautiful stitching to secure the hooks and eyes.  I am used to this sort of stitching to create self loops.  It is great to see it used here this way.

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You can see here how the grosgrain ribbon forms the collar and the ends have been folded to the inside and secured.  It is machine-stitched in place, with decorative hand-stitching on top.

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The back of the jacket features exposed seams which have thin bias binding applied to enclose the edges.  The binding is then periodically crimped along the seams at the lower half of the jacket to form gentle scallops.  On top of this grosgrain ribbon has again been stitched in place.

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And the grosgrain ribbon again appears across the shoulders and down the sleeves, uniting the look through the whole jacket.  I thought it was interesting that the placement of the ribbon was quite a bit below the shoulder seam, then arcing down the sleeve.

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Finally, you can see a plain black silk lining with contrast striped silk sleeves.

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